Going home – 10.000 km transit

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Our friends from Bhopal had invited us for a family lunch in a fancy club. The place was classy and the food exquisite. A rich buffet offered anything one could have dreamt of. Indian food from South to North, Chinese, Italian … Read More

Getting visas for a long travel (a very practical post)

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Visas can be one of a traveller’s worse nightmares. Bureaucratic labyrinths, restricted borders or changing regulations are just some of the obstacles that one may find along the way. But if you are reading this post it is probably because … Read More

Maheshwar, a slice of Varanasi by the shores of Narmada (India)

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Maheshwar looks like a slice of Varanasi – I tell Boris when we reach the ghats. Varanasi (or Benares) is one of that impressive destinations that makes some travellers want to rush away while it gets others trapped for days … Read More

Walking barefoot – travels and encounters in Yangon (Myanmar)

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Heavy, as if the light had a mass, the sun rays beat the facades of the buildings in downtown Yangon and promise to crumble the architectural legacy of colonial times. Hundreds of 19th century structures sprinkled with mould, with trees … Read More

Hippies in Goa (tales from off-season Arambol)

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While Josephine focuses on braiding a coat of hemp rope over a stone, Andreas stretches his legs on the deck chair. Psychedelic music plays atypically quiet from a speaker in the background and, in a way that resembles more a … Read More

The embroidered stall of my Banjara crafts lady.

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She is eighty-something. But she winks like a little girl of five that wants to have you on her side. She is over eighty and sits on the floor with her stall of banjara crafts, sharing with all the tourists … Read More

Guests in Madhya Pradesh. From Bhopal to Pachmarhi.

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We arrive to Bhopal in a dire state. Boris has lost more than seven kilos in a week, and we have not slept much in between doctors, nurses, a cat that tries to play with the ivy tubes, and a scandalous … Read More

Hitchhiking winter (some useful tips)

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The moment we drop the heavy backpacks on the hard shoulder and look straight into the road, a frozen rush of wind blows my woolen hat away. I pick it up muddy from the wet asphalt. It’s always colder out here … Read More

EU Pet passport. How to bring a dog or cat to Europe (from India even!)

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Cats and dogs need passports to cross borders. Just like you and me and everybody else, there is no discrimination in this matter for travellers who walk on four legs. And just like with any other travellers’ visas, the requirements, … Read More

Winter is coming (the end of a journey)

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It was not from the lips of Ned Stark that we heard the infamous sentence for the first time. We were years away from watching series in the evenings and doubt that our messenger had ever heard of Game of … Read More

The best camping stove for hitchhikers

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Food is all you need before you crush exhausted after a long day thumbing crooked roads, all you need when you wake up stiff under the unforgiving morning sun, it’s your comfort during long waiting hours, it’s what you carry … Read More

A village under Kanchenjunga (everyday life in Sikkim)

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Sailing out of the mist, the houses on the mountain slope of the other side of the valley twinkle like electric stars forming the constellations of a human universe. In the giant shadow of snow-clad Kanchenjunga many homes emit a … Read More

3 camping recipes with stinging nettles

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Nettles are bad weeds in our gardens but superb ingredients in our kitchens. Long time ago we read in some book of herbs that nature is wise in having made the nettles stingy, or animals and humans alike would have … Read More

The Living Root Bridges of Meghalaya (India)

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Slowly chewing the bark of a cinnamon branch we walk down the main road of lower Sohra. Its sweet and warming taste feels like a sugar pill reflecting the pleasant sunshine and helping us suppress the anger brought about by … Read More

(Hitch) hiking to Jampui Hills (from Mizoram to Tripura)

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Silent and opaque the night spreads its black curtain over the scarcely populated mountains. Like a candle in a dark room, Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram, illuminates the distant hills in a gleaming aura. It has taken us many hours … Read More

Beyond the hills, only hills (Mizoram)

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The bridge jingles metalically under the weight of the pick-up. Ahead, beyond the hills, lie only hills. А dryish stream run through too wide river banks, like a child dressed in her mother’s gown. We cross from Manipur to Mizoram, … Read More

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