Behind the scenes of kilim weaving (Iran)

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We often say that our travels are crafted by a crew of unnamed and undetectable movie-makers. At times a happy one, at times mischevious, always surprising and never boring. Their presence is felt in the absurdity that surrounds most of … Read More

Isfahan Blue (2). Minakari through the alleys

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Blue is the colour of Isfahan, as if heaven had come down to earth in a million fragments, taking over mosques, mausoleums, bazaars. Shades of azure cover the city in miniature designs. Along the squares, in the market, and behind, … Read More

Isfahan Blue (1). A Treasure hunt for Ghalamkar

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Isfahan feels like a corner of home in between a labyrinth of strange places. It might be its airs of great city, the pride with which it stands like a noble lady with history, someone who knows her well her … Read More

Tehran’s young designers at Jomeh Bazaar (Iran)

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There are cities we walk for days in search for their soul and others we don’t. Tehran belongs to the latter. We came here to rest, to collect visas, to heal from the Iranian madness hiding behind the walls of Nima … Read More

The secrets of Vakil Bazaar – Shiraz (Iran)

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Above the market stalls, where the pigeons nest and the sun sets with some delay, Rahim inhabits a tiny workshop piled up with fabrics from somewhere else. He is silent and patient and hard to find in the midst of … Read More

Prayers to the Lord of Light (Shiraz – Iran)

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Its prayer time at Shah-e-Cherag. The Lord of Light reflects the piety of believers in a million mirrors. Fragments of love and wishes. Tears pour down from women’s eyes and hands reach over my shoulders for the tomb of one … Read More

Bandar Abbas – The eyes behind the mask (Iran)

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Bandar Abbas smells of fish, and of sticky dates, of scented melon and ripe tomatoes. By ten a.m. rivers of sweat flow down from our foreheads, and the scarf keeps the heat stuck to my neck. I resist with visible … Read More

Hormoz – the island of the rainbow mountains (Iran)

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It is only the giant wings of a pterodactyls that could cast a shadow over the rugged mountains of Hormoz and relieve them for a second from the searing sun of the Persian gulf. Although the landscape, reminiscent of Arthur … Read More

Crafts in the Caucasus – From street stalls to artisans’ homes

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We have spent nearly two months roving around the Caucasus, mostly visiting people and places that do not feature in the guidebooks, inventing imaginary lands and running different workshops, but also doing a bit of winter tourism and, of course, our particular crafts … Read More

Abkhazia – a staircase to nowhere

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Abkhazia, a natural paradise that many would argue simply does not exist, is a tiny buffer zone between Russia and Georgia stretching for some 180 km along the Eastern Black Sea coast.  Yet, contrary to any common logic, getting there is perfectly … Read More

How to enter Abkhazia via Georgia

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Unless you are a citizen of the few friendly states that recognize Abkhazia as an independent republic, you will certainly need to obtain permission and visa to visit this little forgotten paradise. This is the way we entered Abkhazia from … Read More

In the high land of the Svans (Georgia)

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After a week of imaginary travels in Zugdidi we finally feel ready to head towards the place that had been haunting our own imagination long before starting this travel. The land of the Svans is just 106 km away from … Read More

Imaginary travels in Zugdidi (Georgia)

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We got to Zugdidi thanks to some dose of curiosity, the interest of Droni Youth Association, and the kind drivers that carried us hitchhiking from Tbilisi.

If a stranger knocks (In Georgia)

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Nobody knocks on the door after 9 o’clock. The neighbours have just left home after some wine and chat, the witch from down the road never knocks but bangs and would just push the door shouting “Mananaaa” – my grandma’s … Read More

A surreal exit (Erzurum – Batumi – Tbilisi)

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The curtain raises.  The transparent moon that impatiently plunges in the sky long before sunset grins in the background over saw-toothed mountains, while we energetically thumb up in the icebound outskirts of Erzurum.  Walking down the road we meditate upon … Read More

Erzurum sub-zero

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Erzurum is a fantastic name, isn’t it? Call it Karin or Arzan ar-Rum and the city does not lose any of its solid feeling.  But that’s not the point of our wonderings; the question is “What is this city doing up … Read More

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